The Tiger Temple (Wat Pha Luang Ta Bua)

It’s an experience that will be difficult to forget.

This was probably the most difficult thing I have ever tried to do on my travels. I set little goals for myself (eat as much as I can, buy a buddha, visit a set list of places etc) so that if I manage to do these things, I would feel like I have achieved something.

But getting to the Tiger Temple was FREAKEN near impossible by a public transport system which had no signs in English and no obvious places to stop. I was literally just laughing , cos I was by myself, and I was absolutely screwed.

But I got there in the end, with a bit of luck, and the kindness of the Thai people, I got there. To take some of the most awesome pictures ever … but I am absolutely convince that these poor things are being drugged … they’re being  worked to the limit the poor things. (And yes, I know I cut my head off, but trust me, I am sexy).

The Bus Stop

I had a shocker of a time getting to the tiger temple. After the long ass bus ride to Kanchanaburi (90baht – $4aus), and then arriving at the bus station, I was absolutely lost. I had no idea if I was actually at Kanchanaburi bus station. I was gob smacked, no one speaks English (which wasn’t surprising anyway), and so I was completely stranded.

I really wanted to explore the city, but couldn’t cos it was also raining. I finally got the balls to ask for help, and I had to get onto this rickety bus (think of a metal bus fixed up with bits of wood), where both the conductor and driver couldn’t speak English (30baht -$1.50aus). It’s not their fault at all, it’s mine, but I was just ignorant enough to believe that this would be easier. 40 minutes away from Kanchanaburi later, the conductor dropped me off here (it’s a bus to the Saiyok district). THIS is literally where the bus dropped me off.

No fucking signs to get to the Tiger temple and I had no idea how long a walk it was to get there. I asked the conductor which direction I had to go before he drove off, and he pointed me up this road.

I can tell you now, any other person would be panicking like crazy. I was absolutely in the middle of no-where, no one around at all, in a place where no one speaks English, absolutely no idea where to go (except walk there), no one to ask help to, and of course no one in Thailand knew where I was (in the world actually), and so therefore no-one would even realise I was missing.

I advise you, organise this with your Hotel or tour group, do not do it alone my dear friends, cos I can tell you now, I felt like I was completely fucked. I wasn’t panicking, I assure you, it isn’t in my nature to panic – I just knew that I was screwed, that was a fact.

On top of all this, it was dark and it was raining … my Romanian friend used to say, “When it rains, it pours” – and my god it does. Oh, and it was HOT! So I was wet, sweaty and lost (like all prostitutes). Shit. Anyway, as I was walking down that road, thinking about long it would take to find civilisation – when some Thai guy came up in a motor bike. It was odd, cos he was carrying an umbrella as he rode the motor cycle.

We had the normal confusion, where I bowed with my hands together, “Saawaatdeekrup” and then him trying to speak Thai, and then me pointing emphatically at myself, “Filipino” – “Philippines”. He spoke no English, but he said, “Tiger Temple” – and I said, “Thank the effing Lord God himself”. It was 10-15min bike ride, and I kid you not, it took 45 minutes to walk back.

The Tiger Temple

When I arrived, there aren’t many people around. Just tourists, all on tour buses (not me of course, and no they didn’t let me on to get back the assholes). Also, there is no temple, I expected there to be a temple that looked similar to the ones I have seen in Ayutthuya, but there isn’t a temple! It’s not Tiger temple, it’s Tigers in holes.

Anyway, it costs 500 baht ($17 aus) to get inside, and then you have to sign a release form (just in case you’re killed by a tiger, or any other animal on the park). It was raining so it was incredibly muddy, I advise you NOT to go in Haviannas as I did, cos you will be uncomfortable for the entire day. Anything that is water proof is fine, bring giant gum boots!

And there are a shit load of different animals, all with different shit with a variation of sizes and smell. It smells like ass, but I guess I didn’t really care, cos I was excited that I somehow managed to get there, and that I was actually going to meet a real live tiger. Part of me was expecting a Tiger to leap out and grab one … would have been cool.

But yes, as I said, there were herds of other animals. I am sort of used to the smell of water buffalo (because of the Philippines) so I didn’t really care. But I as behind these two pommy girls, and they were complaining loudly of the smell. Then one of them trod on bull shit … was hilarious, I was laughing myself, but they can’t say shit to me, cos they thought I was Thai too. He he he.

The Tiger Canyon

Anywho – there was a big sign that said something like, “Tiger Canyon” - which I found odd, but it made sense that this was where the Tigers were going to be. It was all sorts of odd, I mean when you were approaching it – it looked like someone had created this “canyon” with a bull dozer.

They may not have the necessary funds for rebuilding this place yet as it looks as if the Tiger Temple is only recent, it will probably improve the more people come to know this place. But it honestly looks like a land fill they cleared out to shove tigers in.

And of course it was raining, and there was one hell of a long line there. The line you see there is the free tiger pet, you just basically stand behind a tiger and pat it on its back while they take a photo using your own digital camera. If you do not bring your own digital camera, you will not have a photo.

I did not have the patience to wait 40mins just to pat a tiger. It was extremely wet, and it was hot, so I paid an extra 1000baht (about $35aus) “donation” so that that I could take a “special” picture with the tiger. I was probably never going to come back here, so I thought what the hell (but my real reason was that I couldn’t be fucked waiting in the rain). It’s so funny that they say donation … but the place looks a bit like a mess.

I did not expect this. A crap load of Thai people, and a crap load of tigers lounging around everywhere. In the photo above, you can see a tiger moving around so it was obvious no one was going to be patting that particular tiger. It’s a bit intimidating at first really (I head some loud Americans complaining that they didn’t want to pat a tiger that was standing up – no wonder they drug the tigers …) I admit I was shit scared when it had its head on my lap … that mouth was big enough to swallow my skull.

What you see above is the free picture. You stand behind the tiger (who is awake) and you pat its back, while one of the trainers takes a shit load of quality pictures (they actually are quality pictures, with heaps to choose from) of you and the tiger. The first picture you saw of me holding its head, that is one of the  the “special pictures” with a giant tiger (who happens to be asleep). There are reports that people have been mauled by tigers, it’s not true. It’s impossible really. Because the Tiger I was holding, must have been sedated – the way the trainer was tugging its chain … it had to be. I felt bad for it. 5 minutes later, the pictures are done, and you’re moved off. It was too quick, and I wanted to know its name … it was like taking a photo with a statue, or a toy … the photos were impressive, but the experience wasn’t – it just wasn’t long enough, and much too impersonal.

On My Way Out

When you leave the Canyon, you can take a photo with a tiger cub. I am bagging out this place, but I understand that they need the money to fix the place up. The land is in the middle of no-where, and I guess they’re trying to make as much profit as possible so that they’re able to improve the experience. But I will never forget that trainer pulling that chain … I was dead scared of that tiger, and its head was heavier than three bowling bowls, but it was absolutely helpless.

I recommend you coming, just for the fact that you get to touch them and feel them, but I guess you have moral/ethical decisions to make. Thailand is a poor country, and maybe they are problems with tiger trafficking in the Tiger Temple – but people got to make a living …  I don’t want to promote destroying this place, because I gaurantee you that it could be worse for those tigers … I guess the Tiger Temple is just a working progress.

I regret that I woke up a little late to get here too, and I knew that the Kanchanaburi provence was at least 2/3 hours away from Bangkok. I really should have gotten up earlier, so that I could have done more.

But I suggest that if you are to sight see in Kanchanaburi, organise it with your hotel cos they will do this for you, and also stay in Kanchanaburi cos there are a lot of things to do there anyway. Cos there are waterfalls, and the bridge over Kwaii river and a bunch of other crap I didn’t have time to see … it was already very dark when I left, and I had to walk back to the non-existent bus stop in the rain … gah. I was walking for 30-40mins until I was able to flag a bus down …

Oh, keep a look out for this turtle, it’s next to the exit – and it ain’t going anywhere. I guess I could say the pictures were worth it, but I guess it just wasn’t what I was expecting. But you should take the opportunity while its still there, because its the only place in the world you can take a picture with a tiger like that.

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